Bring Out The Black Eyed Peas--Its New Year's Day

Author Adrian Miller, writing about the origins of the New Year’s tradition of eating black eyed peas wrote:

the recipe for an enduring tradition: Take one part European superstition, one part West African culinary memory, one part cultural exchange, combine in the antebellum South, and let simmer for a couple of centuries.

His point is that there is no clear single source for the tradition. Many people point to the Civil war for its origin. Prior to the war, black eyed peas were grown as food for livestock. Because of their lowly reputation, the Union Army troops of General Sherman ignored the fields and silos of black-eyed peas while razing or confiscating other crops. During the harsh winter, Confederate soldiers and Southern families survived on the remaining stocks of black eyed peas. Thus, they became a symbol of good fortune and prosperity.

However, researchers point out that similar foods were eaten to mark celebratory events as early as 500 BC. Nevertheless, there is little doubt about who brought the black eye pea to the American table. West Africans brought to this country came with their “culinary memory” of the dish and transitioned it from cow feed to a staple of the Southern diet in dishes like Hoppin’ John, Greens and Peas with Pork, Cabbage and Peas, etc.—often accompanied by cornbread and tomatoes.

When it comes to eating black eyed peas on New Year’s, most of us are like author Miller who wrote:

I know that I’m supposed to do it, but I’m not sure why. Yet I still endeavor to eat those lucky beans every year. For some reason, they always taste like hope.

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